Pingxi Sky Lanterns: a Blot on the Landscape

NOTE: This article was written on October 4th, 2017. By the time I returned home to England in the summer of 2018 there was increasing talk about starting to produce less harmful, bio-degradable sky lanterns, but I haven’t heard if it came to anything. I’d be interested to hear the latest news.

Tonight, the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival (坪溪天燈節活動) will be held for the second time this year, to celebrate the Mid-autumn Festival, so it’s perhaps the perfect time to consider this controversial activity, and the impact it is having on the local environment.

It’s said that Pingxi’s sky lanterns were first used as a kind of early warning device to alarm local residents when bandits were in the area, so the activity is rooted in historical practice. Unfortunately, this original cultural/historical significance seems to have been lost on many visitors, who release the lanterns year-round these days (and often in large quantities on weekends). In my opinion, the lanterns have instead become a kind of symbol of the selfie-generation. For many tourists I’ve witnessed over the years at Pingxi (平溪) and nearby Shifen (十分), the object of the activity appears to be to have fun with friends, painting messages on the side in the slightly bizarre idea that they’ll then be carried to the gods, take a few selfie shots with the lantern in the background, wow and whoop as said lantern ascends into the air, and then post some pics on social media. It’s harmless entertainment, and this would be perfectly fine, if only it didn’t cause so much harm to the surrounding countryside.

The presumption that all (or even the majority) of the lanterns can be found and cleared up is frankly a naive and fundamentally flawed one, as anyone who knows the rugged topography of the area will immediately realize. Most sky lanterns don’t obediently fall beside trails ready to be picked up by clean-up crews. From personal experience, even those that do fall in easily accessible places sometimes don’t get picked up for weeks, maybe even months. The majority instead fall far from any trail, in often inaccessible places, where they’re left to rot. Or at least the bits that can rot are left to decompose. During several clear-ups of the area over the last few years, we’ve found quite a few abandoned lanterns (all within easy reach of good trails) that had wire frames inside, which won’t decompose for decades or even longer, and meanwhile pose a threat to wildlife as well as being a stain on the beauty of a very special landscape.  The glaze used on the paper and the ink used to paint messages on the side of the lantern also contain chemicals that probably aren’t good for the environment.

I sympathize with those that love to release sky lanterns – it’s a magical activity while the lantern is lit, released, and floats up into the sky, but the truth is that it’s highly – no, extremely – unlikely that your lantern will ever be picked up and disposed of in the correct matter. 

A major argument in favor of continuing the year-round sale of sky lanterns is that they’ve become a hot tourist draw, and the money they bring in is a major boost to the local economy. However, the upper Keelung Valley, in which Pingxi lies, is an area of uncommon scenic and cultural interest, with a whole clutch of spectacular waterfalls, some of the finest hiking in New Taipei City, several atmospheric, historic villages with good local food, an interesting history, and its own quaint branch railway line. Even without the sky lanterns, the area won’t have a major challenge attracting tourists.

I certainly don’t think releasing sky lanterns should be banned outright, even if that were possible. Instead I’d suggest the activity (lanterns are presently released throughout the year) is limited to two annual events: the Lantern Festival and tonight’s Mid-autumn Festival celebration, when limited numbers will be released in relatively controlled conditions. In that way a much-loved activity could continue, the number of lanterns littering the surrounding landscape will decline dramatically, and this stunning corner of our beautiful island will hopefully start to recover from the ever-increasing onslaught of trash that’s threatening to destroy its enchanting beauty.

Off the Beaten Track is Back Online!

After a break of over two years, and being offline for many months, I’m back! The new, improved Off the Beaten Track site was permanently deleted by the domain provider after a paltry, month-long period of grace (along with about eighteen months of blog posts), long before I realized I’d forgotten to update my payment methods, but the original WordPress site survives, and I’m intending to revive it with occasional ‘new’ posts from pieces I wrote (and saved) during my last two years on Taiwan. I moved permanently back to England in July 2018, and after vainly hoping for six months to get my new trekking outfit Trek Taiwan up and running, I accepted the fact that I was back in the UK to stay, and gave up those plans. In hindsight it was unfortunate timing, since I’m now confined to my home in rural Wiltshire (not far from Stonehenge and Bath) while a global pandemic rages (while back in Covid-free Taiwan, my old friends continue to live – and hike – as though nothing was happening!) However, much as I miss Taiwan, Britain offers way more than enough to keep me busy hiking and exploring for at least a couple more decades before I even start to feel like I really know my home country.

A bit older now, but just as happy back home in England!

While cooped up at home I’m planning to top up this blog with some articles written during those last two years in Taiwan and not yet posted on this blog. . I’m now working as a peripatetic piano teacher in local schools, and since I get the same lovely long holidays I enjoyed in Taiwan, I’ll be back in Taiwan for a summer’s adventure, revisiting some old favorites and discovering lots of new places. This almost certainly won’t happen until 2021, but when it does, I’ll have some new fodder for this blog. Can’t wait!

Taiwan’s Top Hundred Peaks: 2. Eight Easier Treks

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Yushan, Taiwan’s highest mountain, is also one of its easiest to climb

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Mountains in Taiwan are famous for their sunrises, but often it’s the sunsets that are the most unforgettable

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Early morning on Mount Tao, Wuling Quadruple

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Jade Mountain is both an exciting climb and a surprisingly easy one

Let me start by saying I’m no expert at hiking Taiwan’s high mountains! Of the Top 100 Peaks (a list of one-hundred mountain peaks from the 270-odd summits in Taiwan that exceed 3,000 meters in height), I’ve so far only done 29 – a lot less than some hiker friends of mine. However I’m acutely aware that starting out on the Top Hundred can be be a bit daunting – the difficulty of the peaks on the list varies hugely, and while two or three summits on the list are within the ability of all able-bodied people, and a further ten or twenty can be conquered by anyone that’s reasonably fit and has a few Taiwan day-hikes under their belt, after that the difficulty level quickly goes through the roof, and inexperienced hikers could easily find themselves in serious trouble if they pick the wrong trek. Continue reading

Mount Baiguda (白姑大山; 3, 341 meters)

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The deceptively gentle-looking summit peak of Mount Baiguda

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Dusk at Siyan campsite, day one

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On the crags which lead to the final climb to the summit

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Ancient trees (both standing and fallen) are a dominant feature of the trail to Mount Baiguda

Mount Baiguda (3,341 meters, no 45 on the ‘Top Hundred’ list) on the border between Nantou County and Taichung City doesn’t seem to get nearly as much love as some of the other summits on Taiwan’s Hundred Peaks list. Permission to climb is easy to get (only a police permit is required), yet there were few other people up there this last weekend, despite the absolutely perfect weather. It’s among the tougher peaks on the list I’ve done to date, especially since we did it in 2 days (meaning a 14-to-16-hour second day of hiking!), but it amazed us all with its beauty. Photos I’ve seen on blogs and elsewhere are usually of the deceptively gentle, rounded, wooded summit dome, which looks boring as anything, but is in fact steep and very rocky, with a stellar 360-degree view from the top. Even more rewarding are the series of crags which the trail follows on the way to the final slog up to the summit peak – nothing technical or difficult, but plenty of tough, knee-breaking  ups and downs, and absolutely stunning views over the surrounding wilderness. Definitely one of my top five high mountains so far, and among the tougher ones too! Continue reading

Taiwan’s Top Hundred Peaks: 1. Getting Started

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Mount Yingzui in eastern Taichung City is the perfect place to get fit (and a bit of experience) for Taiwan’s high mountains

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Around Taipei, The Bat Cave is a compulsory part of a trip to Huangdidian, since it’s the hardest landmark on the ridge to get to.

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Mount Wuwowei is the steepest and probably most interesting of the Guguan Seven Heroes, and with a thousand meters of vertical ascent, it’s a great day hike for boosting stamina and endurance.

Anyone who’s even a bit serious about hiking in Taiwan will sooner or later make a start on the island’s greatest and most tempting hiking challenge: the Top One Hundred Peaks (百岳).

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Negotiating a slippery obstacle on the Fengtoujian Ridge hike

Hiking, like hot spring bathing, was pioneered in Taiwan by the Japanese, who made first ascents and established trails up the island’s tallest mountains, Jade and Snow, and first coined the term “Holy Ridge” to describe one of the island’s most iconic high mountain routes. The small but extraordinarily rugged island of Taiwan is said to have the highest density of high mountains of any country in the world, with 286 named summits over 3,000 meters (10,000 feet) – far more than most mountain climbers are likely to conquer, especially considering how remote and inaccessible many of them are. Perhaps it was because of this that in 1971 members of local hiking clubs made a list of the “top hundred peaks,” a selection of the 3,000 meter-plus mountain summits they considered the finest, most distinctive, most beautiful, and generally worthiest of climbing. Continue reading

Six of the Best: my favorite corners of the world (so far): Part One

Incredible coastal scenery in the Faroe Islands

Incredible coastal scenery in the Faroe Islands

Adele penguins in Antarctica

Adelie penguins in Antarctica

The unforgetable ice fjord at Ilulissat, Greenland (taken just before midnight in July)

The unforgetable ice fjord at Ilulissat, Greenland (taken just before midnight in July)

Following an enforced change of plans this summer, over the last six weeks I ended up exploring Ireland and Sicily, two European regions I’ve been fascinated by for years, but never made it to until now. Both are magnificent, amazing places, although their also far from unknown quantities to travellers. Ireland was about as wonderful as I’d long expected, but Sicily really took me by surprise – it’s surely one of the great travel destinations of the world.  Despite the popularity of both places, one thing that struck me in a very positive way was how ‘authentic’ they felt on the whole. Tourism is still relatively low-key in Ireland, Sicily and elsewhere in southern Italy, the people of both countries are curious, friendly almost to a fault, and absolutely fascinating culturally, retaining their own unique characters in a world where people often seem to be losing their individuality. Best of all though the despised plague of mass luxury tourism that’s infecting popular tourist destinations the world over has yet to taint either.  This summer’s travels set me thinking about other far less well-known places that I’ve been lucky enough to visit already, and how bizarrely and inexplicably (although so fortunately, for us travellers) they’ve remained off the radar for most to this  day. Continue reading

Shanghuang Stream (上磺溪): a Little-known Yangmingshan Gem

The 'cave' on the Shanghuang Stream

The ‘cave’ on the Shanghuang Stream

Tracing the Huangxi with its sulfur-stained rocks, en route to the confluence with the Shanghuang Stream

Tracing the Huangxi with its sulfur-stained rocks, en route to the confluence with the Shanghuang Stream

The beautiful (and popular) Bayan Hot Spring lies near the start of the river trace to and up the Shanghuang Stream

The beautiful (and popular) Bayan Hot Spring lies near the start of the river trace to and up the Shanghuang Stream

Yangminshan has a couple of classic river traces – the wonderful Masu Stream (still one of my favorite river traces to date) and the popular Toucian Stream – a very popular place for beginners to learn the art of river tracing. The remaining river traces in the national park (and it’s beginning to look like there are quite a few good ones!) seem to be the preserve of keen local river tracers, and, if our discovery of this real gem last week is any indicator, there are some jealously kept secrets on YMS waiting to be discovered by the rest of us!

We only discovered the Shanghuiang Stream and its amazing gorge/cave scenery after a member of our hiking group posted a video of two blokes kayaking (yes, kayaking!) down it (probably after a typhoon). Continue reading

An English Lakeland Summer

Helvellyn from Striding Edge

Helvellyn from Striding Edge

 

On the way to Great Gable near the fell known as Brandreth

On the way to Great Gable near the fell known as Brandreth

 

Scrambling up the screes of Great Gable

Scrambling up the screes of Great Gable

 

The English Lake District has been well and truly on the tourist path for the last 150 years or so, yet although as a teenager I spent long expeditions collecting the area’s numerous waterfalls for a youthful (and finished but never-published) book documenting the complete waterfalls of England, last week was the first time I’ve ever climbed any of the peaks in the National Park. The extraordinary beauty of this area has been well documented since Tennyson’s time, of course, but in fine, sunny weather, and with the company of a few like-minded hikers, considering the tremendous rewards to reaped for relatively little effort, the Lake District’s peaks simply can’t be beat in my book. It’s simply fabulous up there! Continue reading

Batongguan Historic Trail (Dongpu Section): Another of Taiwan’s Finest Day Hikes

On Batongguan Old Trail, about ninety minutes out of Dongpu

On Batongguan Old Trail, about ninety minutes out of Dongpu

Cloud Dragon Waterfall

Cloud Dragon Waterfall

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In a blog entry several years ago, I wrote that the awesome Zhuilu Cliff Trail is the finest day walk in Taiwan. I haven’t changed my mind yet, but in it’s different way the Western end of the cross-island Batongguan Historic Trail is probably an equal partner. I walked this stretch (from Dongpu Hot Springs to Yinu (‘one girl’) Waterfall), permits are required to go further) once twenty years ago and it blew me away. Continue reading